There’s something to be said about family-run estates. More often than not, these charming businesses manage to convey a sense of warmth and intimacy even when the services provided are particularly high-end. Case in point: Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel, an idyllic retreat that boasts surprisingly large orange groves, fragrant gardens, vegetable patches, and a world-class spa. A luxurious getaway for sure, but one where the sense of being an individual getting a personalized service is never far away.
During our visit, we get impressed by the large swimming pools and the amazing dining options, but even though we would love to stay longer, time is limited, and we’ll have to return to the hotel to write a full-length article about it soon. As it is, we do get to visit two of the Atzaró restaurants – one outside of the hotel called Aubergine and one within the resort grounds themselves called La Veranda.
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Aubergine by Atzaró
Rustic but also very stylish, Aubergine by Atzaró – located near Santa Gertrudis – features a sprawling garden with lots of different terraces and romantic pagodas to sit and enjoy lunch or dinner. There’s even a lovely small boutique where a carefully selected assortment of products is sold. The cooking is, somehow appropriately, done by a self-taught lady chef who’s been with Aubergine for a full decade now, and even looking at one of the cookbooks she wrote gives an immediate sense of what to expect: family cuisine upgraded to gastronomic levels, with dishes that heavily feature colorful farm-to-table ingredients.
The bohemian chic décor, expansive use of wood, and lush greenery make for the kind of relaxed, outdoorsy atmosphere almost exclusively found in regions blessed with a warm microclimate. We can’t help but think that the many healthy options are a completely natural extension of our environment as well. Whether vegetarian, vegan, or gluten-free, the items on offer cater to conscious eating and alternative dietary requirements, although fish, poultry, and the least healthy option – red meat – still make up a large part of the menu.
The homemade lasagne doesn’t really look like a traditional lasagne, and it doesn’t taste like one either – which definitely isn’t a bad thing, as the layers of sautéed mushrooms and tender asparagus provide a lot of earthy punch. It’s a very contrasty dish with lots of texture that is elevated by adding truffle oil. Lots of umami in here as well, making for a more sophisticated vegetarian twist on a classic than its somewhat crude presentation might suggest.
Our Turkish aubergine dish doesn’t really have the tender eggplant as the star of the show, but rather the richly-seasoned stuffing of minced beef and lamb. It’s a very aromatic dish with a lot of herbal depth and a hint of spiciness. A touch of honey adds a little bit of sweetness that is counterbalanced by some chili heat. On the side of the plate is a creamy yogurt and tahini sauce. The lettuce and pomegranate are perfect additions, making for a succulent dish that references the Maghreb cuisine very well.
We get treated to a well-cut sea bass filet, enhanced with a brush of rich, briny Kalamata olive. The roasted cherry tomatoes provide some sweetness and add a touch of acidity without overtaking the dish like raw tomatoes would. We also love the fact that the garlic taste is definitely present, adding more warmth and depth, while the small, egg-shaped Ibizan potatoes have been cut to fully take advantage of their soft, tender interior and their crispier outside. The hearty roasted cauliflower brings nuttiness and caramelized flavors, making for a very complete, very tasty dish.
There are two meat dishes that catch our eye and since it's tough to choose, we let the choice be made for us. One is the tenderloin with crispy, golden-roasted potatoes and Padron pepper, while the other is the lamp chops with baby potatoes from Ibiza, Padron peppers and garlic. Looking at our neighbors' table, it becomes obvious both dishes succeed in maintaining their main ingredients' juiciness while contributing a texture that suits the meat amazingly well.
The first dessert is the Atzaró’ Cheesecake with mango, topped with a little bit of fresh fruit. The tropical tropical flavors go well with the velvety texture and add more sweetness, although there’s also enough acidity present to keep the cheesecake from being too sugary.
Our second dessert is a luxurious twist on the classic French apple tart tatin. The tart features caramelized apples, perfectly cooked until soft and golden, resting atop a buttery, flaky pastry crust. The apples have a rich, sweet flavor, enhanced by the deep, glossy caramel that coats them, adding a decadent richness. Accompanying the tart is a scoop of Ibiza salt ice cream, which adds a unique contrast with its creamy texture and subtle salty undertones. The salt amplifies the sweetness of the caramel, while also cutting through its richness, creating a harmonious balance of sweet and savory. Altogether, it’s a refined dessert with a sophisticated, coastal touch.
The yuzu and lemongrass artisanal ice cream isn’t made in-house, but by Sandro Desii, known for its remarkable assortment. Even though it isn’t freshly made, it does remain a nice treat that focuses heavily on the tangy brightness of the yuzu, balanced by the subtle, earthy citrus aroma of the lemongrass. There’s sweetness, silkiness, and some welcome herbal notes here, making for a good dessert even though it does come prepackaged.
La Veranda
Although not located in a large garden like Aubergine, La Veranda might as well be, as the Atzaró estate is every bit as much in touch with nature, albeit a more sculpted version of it. The name is well-chosen and reflects the relaxed but elegant atmosphere perfectly. Even while we’re having our lunch, birds gently swoop down next to us and our neighbors, looking to join us without being too intrusive. It’s easy to find the shade of an olive tree here, and we can also easily imagine having a romantic candlelit dinner at night in La Veranda.
We start off with a trio of cocktails—one for each of us—from the interesting cocktail/mocktail/smoothie/juice menu. All of our drinks are created with the savoir-faire of an actual mixologist, with the Smoke on the Water signature cocktail as a standout. A mezcal-based cocktail, its focus remains on the smokiness of the mezcal, with watermelon contributing some freshness, lime adding the needed acidity, and hibiscus bringing a herbal touch to the mixture. It’s thankfully not too sweet and rather refreshing—exactly what we want before lunch.
Our first starter is obviously inspired by the Peruvian cuisine: thinly-sliced sea bass tiradito with tiger’s milk, pistachio, pomegranate, onion, fresh chilli and citrus fruits taken from the Atzaró estate itself. The silky texture of the sea bass serves as the perfect canvas for the aromatic tiger’s milk, which is really a citrus-based marinade traditionally used in ceviche. It gives the dish a nice zesty kick and an extra layer of complexity. We also love the juxtaposition of the crunchy pistachios’ nuttiness and the juicy pomegranate seeds, while the crisp, thinly sliced onions and the fresh, spicy chili contribute a lot to this excellent, multi-dimensional dish.
Our avocado salad is more about getting the right fresh ingredients on one plate than it is about high gastronomy. As can be expected, the rich, buttery avocado takes center stage, its creaminess nicely contrasted by the radish’s peppery bite. Roasted seeds add some nutty, toasted depth and texture, while the subtle, tangy vinaigrette with slightly pungent garlic, sharp mustard and sweet honey vinaigrette ties everything together well.
We dive more into the Mediterranean-meets-East territory with yet another dish: labneh (a soft, strained yogurt that has the consistency of a creamy cheese) with sautéed cherry tomatoes, garlic, mint, chilli, pine nuts and toasted seeds, served with naan bread. The blistered cherry tomatoes are appropriately softened, but this time it’s not the texture that impresses most; it’s how the spices work together. We love how the chef created so much harmony between the sweetness of the cherry tomatoes, the warmth of the garlic, the refreshing herbal notes of the fresh mint, the heat of the chili, and the nuttiness of the crunchy pine nuts. It’s a creamy, delightful mix of tastes that works extremely well with the naan bread, and although it’s not an extremely innovative dish, it is composed with a sense of perfection.
The tempura zucchini flowers demonstrate how smart the chef is. Sure, there are more people who can get the light batter right, fry it to a crisp and make sure the exterior is crispy golden, but there’s more going on in our dish. The stems of our zucchini flowers are cooked al dente, while the core are soft and tender. The result: different textures in one and the same main ingredient. Deceptively simple, but excellent.
Another one of the main dishes is the grilled octopus with black rice, paprika all i oli and leek chips. Although we always feel a little guilty eating octopus, it’s quite simply an amazing dish, with the smoky, slightly sweet flavor and succulent texture of the octopus taking center stage. The dark, nutty-flavored rice is given more savory depth by cooking it in squid ink, while the paprika lends a spicy kick to the smooth garlic sauce. The leek chips add a delicate crunch, making for a lot of different textures in just one dish.
One of our favorite dishes has less thrills on the outside, but is a sumptuous delicacy on the inside: the pasta stuffed with black trumpet mushrooms and truffle. The ravioli-like dish’s dough is just thin enough and soft while retaining a lot of texture, while the black trumpet mushrooms retain their smoky, earthy flavor very well. The truffle, of curse, adds some smoky, fragrant earthiness, making for one of the best fillings we’ve had since our review of La Truffe Noire in Brussels. The generous sprinkling of freshly-grated Parmesan cheese adds its sharp, salty edge and the crème fraiche contributes some luxurious creaminess and a touch of acidity. Definitely a dish we can’t get enough of!
The free range Payese chicken marinated in lemon, thyme, rosemary and garlic, with roasted Ibiza potato, baby vegetables, Ibiza goat cheese and nut sauce may not have the artistic presentation of a star dish, but it certainly tastes like one. Kudos, especially, to the amazing marinade, which makes great use of the vibrant citrus brightness and the earthy, herbal depth of the thyme and rosemary, with some mellow, savory garlic rounding out the flavors. The chicken is very tender, the buttery potatoes lend more texture and the goat cheese melds together with the nut sauce very well to add some creamy richness with more than a hint of nuttiness. It’s a rich, fairly heavy dish, but the fattiness brings out the different flavors very well.
Both La Veranda and Aubergine by Atzaró exemplify Atzaró’s commitment to sustainability and well-being, making them ideal destinations for anyone looking to enjoy Ibiza’s finest culinary offerings in a serene, nature-inspired setting. Stay tuned for our full review of Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel, where we’ll dive deeper into all of the experiences this magical retreat has to offer.
Interview Aubergine by Atzaró
Of course, the vibrant menu served at Aubergine by Atzaró merits an interview and so we sit down with chef Rosina Walter – who also wrote the great-looking cookbook – and Esteban, who run the restaurant under the Atzaró umbrella together. After some short introductions, we delve deeper info Rosina’s culinary vision.
LifeBytes Magazine: You said you originally didn’t plan on becoming a chef.
Rosina: That's right.
How did that happen? When did you decide, ‘Okay, this is what I’m going to do with my life’?
I started very small. People liked what I cooked, and I read a lot. I experimented whenever I had the money. As a child, my grandmother cooked very well. Although I didn’t directly learn from her, the flavors from my childhood stayed with me. I’ve always loved natural foods, colors, and experimenting with ingredients.
Is this your first job as a chef?
No, I started in a small place making toast and salads. Later, I worked as a private chef before I began here. I’ve been working here for 10 years now, but I started cooking for my family about three years before that. I have three children, so I mainly cooked for them.
So this restaurant has been around for about 10 years?
Yes, and I’ve been here from the start.
That’s quite a long time.
Yes.
But Esteban has worked here for 8 years, right?
Yes, that’s a big milestone.
How long have you been working together?
Esteban: It’s been amazing. I started with a group in hotel tourism, working with white chairs, and every day I tried to grow. We moved to a beach hotel in Kalonova, and since then, I’ve been working here for 8 years.
Do you think it helps to have a core team that’s worked together for so long in running the restaurant?
Definitely. It makes a huge difference. In the past, there was often tension between the service staff and the kitchen in many places, but here, we’re like friends. We help each other, and that makes everything easier.
Esteban: Yes, the relationship between the service staff and the kitchen is essential. I think that’s the secret to the success of this restaurant because it’s always been the same team.
That helps a lot, but it’s also rare to see.
Yes, it’s unusual to have the same people for so many years, especially in the kitchen. Some people have been working here since the beginning and come back every summer.
We’ve tasted a lot of the food. How would you describe your vision as a chef? What makes a dish great?
For me, it’s all about the product. Everything must be healthy, homemade, and not too complicated. It’s the same food I made for my kids, and it’s inspired by the flavors I grew up with, especially from my grandmother’s kitchen.
So your children always tasted your new dishes first?
Yes, always. My children are now 33, 29, and 27, and whenever I try something new, I always ask my daughter Amber. She’ll tell me honestly if she doesn’t like it, and then I know I need to improve it. I rely heavily on her opinion.
That’s wonderful!
Yes, very direct feedback!
Esteban: Yes, that’s how it goes.
Everything I know, I’ve taught myself.
How much of an advantage is it to get all those fresh local products from the garden?
It’s fantastic. Every day we get fresh products, and then I can create new dishes. I have the menu, but when we have fresh tomatoes, for example, I make tomato burrata, or if we have beets, I make salmorejo or aioli. It gives me the freedom to experiment.
So sometimes you think, ‘I have this ingredient, let’s add it to the menu’?
Yes, exactly. I love trying new things. We have some dishes that have been on the menu for 8 years because they’re very popular, but every year I try to add 4 or 5 new dishes.
That’s something that bothers me about some restaurants – they keep serving the same dishes year after year.
Yes, exactly.
I’ve been to some great restaurants, but I know some of the dishes were made 15 years ago. You can’t go back often.
Yes, everything stays the same.
I might go once per season, not every week.
Here we have guests who come back year after year for specific dishes, but I also try to add new options each year, along with some special suggestions.
Esteban: Yes, we always have some suggestions.
I need to keep creating and trying new things.
I love that drive to innovate as a chef.
Esteban: It gives our customers more options so nothing gets boring.
I also noticed you have a lot of vegan and vegetarian options.
Esteban: Yes, definitely.
Yes, we even offer vegan cheeses.
Have you noticed an increasing demand for vegan options?
Yes, absolutely. It’s a growing trend.
Esteban: Especially people from France often ask for vegan options.
That’s great! I also noticed the restaurant has a beautiful atmosphere, with enough space between the tables. Even when it’s full, it feels comfortable and creates a great ambiance. How much do you think the location contributes to the overall experience?
The location is very important.
Esteban: About 70%.
Yes, it’s everything together—the atmosphere, the ambiance.
Esteban: Yes, it’s beautiful, and people often compliment the location, the trees, the view. It’s very important for the success of the restaurant.
What are your future plans for the restaurant? What’s the next goal?
We’re not sure yet. I’d like to start something smaller, something more intimate. I love this place, but we have so many people every day, especially during high season.
Esteban: During high season, it can be very stressful. Some days we serve up to 300 people.
So you’re thinking of starting something small? More fine dining?
Yes, something more focused on quality and refined cuisine.
That makes sense.
Yes, I want to focus on dishes made with fresh market ingredients—that’s the way I love to cook.
Text: Dirk Vandereyken
Pictures: David Robyn, Marian Michiels, Dirk Vandereyken
More info :
Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel
Diseminado P 12
Sta Eulalia, 153
07849, Illes Balears
Ibiza
Spain
Website: www.atzaro.com
E-mail: agroturismo@atzaro.com
Telephone: +34 971 33 88 38
Aubergine by Atzaró
Carr. de San Miquel, km 9, 9
07815 Sant Miquel de Balansat
Balearic Islands
Ibiza
Spain
Website: www.aubergineibiza.com
E-mail: info@aubergineibiza.com
Telephone: +34 971 09 00 55
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