Restaurant Review: Colonel Saab (Trafalgar Square)
A Culinary Journey Through India
No, there’s certainly no shortage of Indian restaurants in London – and many of them have won a prize for their curry or something similar in some magazine or obscure website. However, there are a few Indian establishments that truly stand out, whether through their food, their interior, or something else, and Colonel Saab is undoubtedly one of them. In 2021, restaurateur Roop Partap Choudhary opened the first Colonel Saab in a prime location in Holborn, and two years later, another branch was added at the iconic tourist hotspot of Trafalgar Square. While the square is not only known for Nelson’s Column, a 52-meter-tall statue honoring Admiral Horatio Nelson, but also for its numerous (often expensive) restaurants, the question remains: how does Colonel Saab rise above the crowd? We went to find out.
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Both restaurants are an homage to the extensive travels Roop Partap undertook with his father, Colonel Manbeer, and his mother, Binny Choudhary, throughout India. At the time, it was common practice to transfer high-ranking officers from one station to another, which gave the young Roop Partap the opportunity to explore a wide range of Indian cuisines. These unintentional culinary adventures took the family from Indian breakfasts served in officers’ mess halls to traditional lunches in Rajasthan’s tent camps and even to royal banquets.
The owner-chef didn’t just rely on his memory when crafting the restaurant menus; he spent a year retracing his father’s postings. This journey involved cars, buses, and trains, enabling Roop Partap to engage with local communities at each location to learn precisely how each dish was made – and how it had evolved. The result? A slew of accolades from leading organizations like Feed the Lion, the Asian Curry Awards, and the British Curry Awards. It doesn’t hurt that the Choudhary family also owns hotels – including the award-winning Noor Mahal in Karnal (North India), where Roop serves as executive director – allowing him to stay closely connected to culinary trends.
Reception & Interior
Despite the Trafalgar Square branch’s large size, spanning two full floors, we were warmly welcomed by the enthusiastic staff and escorted to our table. The team took their time to guide us through the restaurant, which we appreciated, as there’s much to see. With a bar, a lounge, a dining area illuminated by beautiful Firozabad chandeliers, a mezzanine, and two private dining rooms, the space is as vast as it is captivating. However, it’s the stories behind the numerous artworks that truly fascinate us.
Everywhere you look, you’ll find museum-worthy pieces. Vibrant 16th-century Tanjore paintings on wood from South India (known for their rich colors and gold leaf details), handcrafted wooden doors from temples in Gujarat and Nepal (each showcasing intricate carvings reflecting regional craftsmanship), and fine porcelain plates from the 18th century are just some highlights.
Warli paintings (a tribal art form dating back to 2500 BCE) adorn the walls, as do Bakhtiari and Kilim rugs, each with complex patterns that tell tales from their regions of origin. And we haven’t even mentioned the miniature paintings and antique Phulkari embroidery.
The décor is eclectic but incredibly tasteful, creating an experience where there’s always something new to discover – even during a quick walk between courses. But, of course, the real stars of the show are the food and drinks.
Our Menu
We are served a custom and thoroughly impressive tasting menu and even send one of our photographers back a few days later to try another dish that we simply cannot miss (and because he is hungry).
First, we are introduced to the Colonel Saab cocktail, a signature creation based on Chivas 12-year-old whisky, combined with the warmth of coffee, aromatic chai (Indian black tea), and glair (frothy whipped egg white). We’re not huge fans of Chivas – there are much better, though pricier, whiskies available – but the deep, spicy flavor of this cocktail strikes an excellent balance between sweet and savory, making it an enjoyable aperitif.
The excellent Mr. Puri is smoky and sour, with a nutty undertone thanks to the house-made matcha tea syrup and Koch El Mezcal.
Again, there are better mezcals available, but within its price range, Koch is a solid choice, and the cocktail simply works.
Naturally, we are served rotis – Indian flatbreads – with our meal. These are wonderfully soft yet sturdy and prepared in a tandoor oven, which gives them a lightly smoky char. A touch of butter adds a rich flavor. Alongside perfectly prepared, wonderfully aromatic basmati rice, there is more than enough to pair with the dishes.
The Purani Dilli is an explosion of flavors and textures, with tender masala-spiced chickpeas that perfectly contrast with crispy sev (a traditional Indian snack made from thin, crunchy chickpea noodles) and juicy pomegranate. Fresh, colorful, and a harmonious blend of traditional ingredients and modern presentation.
We also sample the Chilli Mogo: lightly crispy fried cassava, enhanced with an earthy soy sauce and sweet-sour tamarind, finished with toasted sesame seeds that enhance the nutty dimensions of the sauce. It is served with a wonderfully crunchy papadum – a truly tasty dish!
The Kori Kempu is a dish from Mangalore where crispy fried chicken is paired with rice noodles and spicy chili mayo. A hint of coconut not only softens the spices but also creates a successful harmony of flavors.
Colonel Saab’s Butter Chicken is a local favorite, featuring tender pieces of chicken cooked in a velvety sauce of cashews and tomatoes. This adds depth, with the kind of creamy, rich aromas that most fans of Indian cuisine adore.
The Kolhapuri Lamb Chops are rubbed with an intensely spicy blend of seasonings and served with lime chili sauce and a fresh salad. The spices do not overwhelm but rather complement the already flavorful meat beautifully, while the lime chili sauce provides a necessary fresh and slightly spicy touch.
We are served two desserts, the first of which is the creamy Kochi’s Coconut Pannacotta. The tropical flavor of coconut is combined with a surprising hint of black pepper, while the vanilla mango sauce adds some fruity sweetness. This delightful dessert is finished with crispy coconut croutons for added texture, but it is the liquid nitrogen that creates the ultimately impressive effect. Sublime, and in our view, even Michelin-worthy.
Another crowd favorite is the soft Ras Malai Milk Cake, soaked in a rich, aromatic cardamom sauce. The texture is special, but it is the interplay of spiced and sweet notes that makes this a true Indian classic.
Some dishes are served together on the table, making it extra challenging to find the perfect wine pairing for every course. During the meal, we try two varieties. The first is a South African Buitenwereld Chardonnay 2022, with aromas of tropical fruit and notes of butterscotch and toast, beautifully balanced by the oak aging and a refreshing acidity.
The second is a very fresh Pulenta Estate Pinot Gris XIV Agrelo, an elegant, slightly green white wine with aromas of white flowers, pear, and white peach. This wine also offers a balanced acidity and a long finish. Not bad, though we would have appreciated a bit more variety to pair with.
Conclusion
Colonel Saab easily distinguishes itself from the crowd at Trafalgar Square with its refined dishes, excellent cocktails, and a downright impressive interior, featuring tastefully chosen artworks and antique pieces, each with a story to tell. Every aspect of the experience radiates care and attention to detail, from the authentic flavors of the dishes to the artworks that adorn the restaurant.
The tasting menu feels like an authentic culinary journey through India, with each course highlighting the rich diversity of Indian cuisine, all while paying attention to modern sensibilities.
More info
Colonel Saab (Trafalgar Square)
40, 42 William IV St
London WC2N 4DD, Engeland
Telefoon: +44 20 8016 6800
Website: www.colonelsaab.co.uk
Tekst: Dirk Vandereyken
Foto's: David Robyn
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