Restaurant Review- Es Xarcu (Es Cubells, Ibiza)
- Dirk Vandereyken
- 19 dec 2024
- 5 minuten om te lezen
SIMPLE, BUT UNIQUE
Most restaurant reviews follow a predictable pattern: you travel to the location and step inside. Our visit to Es Xarcu, however, takes an unexpected turn. We order a taxi, only to be told by the driver that she can’t take us ‘all the way down,’ leaving us to tackle the final (rather steep) stretch on foot. The path leads us to a stunning rocky beach, but there’s no restaurant in sight – at least, not anymore. A quick call to the staff reveals that Es Xarcu’s beach location was just a temporary stint; we’re actually expected in the village of Es Cubells, a little farther away. The owners, however, are quick to show their warmth and hospitality, and soon we’re picked up by the friendly woman who, among other duties, manages the bookkeeping.

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Location & Interior
The current restaurant sits across from the striking, snow-white Santa Maria dels Cubells church, on a charming square with a breathtaking view of the sea. Inside, the decor is fairly minimalist, but the terrace – where nearly everyone chooses to dine – is a standout, thanks in part to the beautiful church just opposite.
Better still, you’re only a minute’s walk from a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean Sea – absolutely spectacular!
Our waiters take their time explaining the menu, and later, the gracious owner stops by to chat. Her English is limited, and she does her best to communicate, but fortunately, this journalist’s modest Spanish skills are enough to convey our appreciation for Es Xarcu’s impressive fish selection.

The Menu
Es Xarcu is a traditional fish restaurant at heart, serving up authentic classics. Don’t come expecting cutting-edge cuisine; instead, anticipate top-notch fish and seafood, alongside options for meat lovers and vegetarians.
The wine list is surprisingly extensive, featuring Rioja and Albariño among others. Rioja might seem an odd pick for a fish-focused spot, but as we’ll see, the menu isn’t exclusively seafood. We’re served a crisp Terras Gauda O Rosal – a juicy wine listed as Albariño on the menu, though that’s only 70% accurate. It’s blended with 22% Caiño Blanco and 8% Loureiro, grape varieties common in Galicia, where the winery is based. It’s a sensible pairing!
The Albariño brings volume and fruitiness, the Caiño Blanco adds tropical notes and structure (with a hint of balsamic), and the Loureiro lends a delicate floral touch that complements the other flavors. Hand-harvested in 20 kg crates, each grape variety is vinified separately with cold maceration for intense aromas. Fermentation happens at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks with local yeasts, yielding a complex wine with refreshing citrus, sweet pineapple, and peach notes. Subtle hints of mint and orange blossom mingle with earthy laurel on the palate, finishing with a lime-like zing that makes it endlessly drinkable.

We kick off with shared small plates, like European anchovies in vinegar topped with a few olives. Marinated in vinegar, the anchovies are lightly 'cooked' by the acidity, offering a soft texture that retains its delicate integrity. Their natural saltiness is perfectly balanced by the vinegar’s mild tang, which adds citrusy brightness. A sprinkle of parsley – and likely garlic – gives the dish a savory, spicy kick, while a few slightly bitter black olives provide a clever contrast to the fresh, zesty fish.

Next, a generous plate of Iberian ham arrives. Deep red with even marbling and glossy fat, it hints at premium jamón Ibérico from acorn-fed pigs, though the menu doesn’t specify. The flavor is nutty and faintly sweet, with buttery fat that melts on the tongue. Saltiness and aging strike a near-perfect balance, delivering rich umami. A stellar choice!
The menu also features classics like bread with tomato – a simple regional staple. In Catalonia, there’s a ritual of rubbing fresh tomato onto the bread, but here the kitchen has done the work for us, adding garlic and olive oil. We don’t mind; it amplifies the ham’s full, nutty flavor. Less successful is our wine pairing with the red meat and pan con tomate, though it shines with the dishes that follow.

The first dish to truly impress is freshly cooked clams in an aromatic broth. Perfectly opened shells (a sign of freshness and skillful prep) reveal juicy, tender meat. The salty, savory broth enhances the clams’ natural brininess, and a squeeze of lemon brings the umami into sharper balance. Served in a heavy cast-iron pan, the dish stays delightfully warm – a fresh, salty, rich, and subtly spicy triumph.

Next up: whole grilled squid with fried potato slices and roasted Padrón peppers. The three little squids boast a lightly roasted, caramelized exterior and a tender, juicy interior, likely dressed with garlic and parsley for a fresh, zesty lift. The grilled green peppers add a faint smokiness (though the heat has mostly faded), while roasted bell pepper and a lemon slice enhance the squid’s salty savoriness. It’s a dish that could win over even squid skeptics.

Whole fried rainbow wrasse – typical of coastal areas like Ibiza – arrive with thin potato slices, but the fish take center stage. Golden-brown and crispy outside, soft and tender within, they strike a lovely balance of crunch and succulence. Frying adds savoriness without weighing it down.

Among Es Xarcu’s many fish offerings, like sea bass and sea bream, our delicate, light white fish flesh is seasoned with olive oil, garlic, and lemon.

Our final main, John Dory, seems oven-baked, served with a rich sauce, fried potato slices, bell pepper, garlic, and two grilled tomatoes that lend a smoky, caramelized note to the firm fish. Herbs and spices add depth. The presentation is a tad messy, but the flavor is spot-on – though bone-averse diners might want to steer clear.

These dishes are straightforward but bursting with robust flavors. The same can be said, to an extent, of the desserts. Our picks: the tarte tatin with artisanal vanilla ice cream (speckled with visible vanilla seeds), the decadent chocolate cake with white topping and fresh strawberries, and the greixonera – a traditional Ibizan pudding cake akin to bread pudding, topped with caramelized sugar, whipped cream, and a fresh mint leaf. All exceptional.
Conclusion
Es Cubells may only have two proper restaurants, but even those who are not staying in the immediate vicinty won’t regret a visit – or a long dinner. With its cozy vibe, stunning views, fresh fish dishes, and superb terrace, Es Xarcu shines effortlessly. Lovers of honest cooking with authentic Ibizan ingredients in a laid-back setting will know exactly where to head.

More Info:
Es Xarcu
Carrer es Cubells 2, 1, 07839 Es Cubells,
Illes Balears
Phone: +34 648 654 829
Website: www.esxarcurestaurante.com
E-mail: info@esxarcurestaurante.com
Text: Dirk Vandereyken
Pictures: David Robyn, Benny Bicker
Text: Dirk Vandereyken
Photos: David Robyn, Benny Bicker
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