TWEE STARS À LA CARTE
Admittedly, as a global gastronomic hub, London isn’t short on incredible culinary destinations. Yet, the city just falls short of reaching the milestone of 20 restaurants with two or three Michelin stars. While still an impressive number, the English capital boasts around 80 Michelin-starred establishments in total – equating to 0.82 starred restaurants per 100,000 residents. This figure pales in comparison to cities like Kyoto, with 6.85, or Paris, with 5.81. Top-tier venues like Trivet, therefore, remain rare gems and absolutely worth a visit. But just how exceptional is this culinary temple? We decided to find out for ourselves!
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Trivet is the brainchild of an exceptionally dynamic duo: renowned chef Jonny Lake and sommelier Isa Bal. Lake spent an impressive 12 years as executive head chef of The Fat Duck, a restaurant that, under the leadership of Heston Blumenthal, was repeatedly crowned the best in the world and continues to hold an esteemed three-star Michelin status. Isa Bal, meanwhile, served as The Fat Duck's head sommelier and has since racked up accolades, including the LEGEND Award from Top100Sommeliers, a spot on the Top 50 Sommeliers list by Harpers Wine and Spirits, and the Wine and Spirit Ambassador Award from the Cateys, honoring his dedication to training the next generation of sommeliers.
With such credentials, expectations are naturally sky-high. Yet, we step into the restaurant with a touch of trepidation—we are horribly late! First, we find ourselves ensnared in a sea of fans flocking to London for the Champions League final between Borussia Dortmund and Real Madrid. Then, the subway train we finally manage to catch runs an exasperating 16 minutes behind schedule. Despite our tardiness, the team greets us with open arms, and their warm hospitality immediately puts us at ease, helping us shake off the stress.
Location & Interior
Trivet is conveniently located near The Shard, London's tallest building at an impressive 309.6 meters (and the seventh tallest in Europe), just a short stroll from London Bridge Station. Unlike most Michelin-starred restaurants, Trivet features a terrace, and its interior, while retaining subtle nods to its former life as the gastrobunker Londrino, has been reimagined by a specialist in Turkish design. The result is a much warmer atmosphere, with plenty of wood paneling and spherical pendant lights adding a cozy charm.
Another standout feature setting Trivet apart from other two-Michelin-starred establishments in London is its separate bar. Open Tuesday through Saturday, it’s a welcoming spot to drop in for a drink. On Mondays, when the main restaurant is closed, the space transforms into Labombe, a wine bar concept where guests can also enjoy approachable lunch dishes. Additionally, even in the evenings, there’s no obligation to commit to a full chef-curated tasting menu – you can simply order à la carte, making fine dining here refreshingly flexible.
Not being required to commit to a set menu is certainly convenient for those who don’t have three or four hours to spend dining – and it’s undeniably promising.
Our Menu
We let the charming Jonny Lake curate a menu for us from the available dishes and are also presented with the stunning wine list. It’s less a typical wine list and more like a hefty calendar – delightful! The wines are arranged in an inventive order, starting with the countries that first began producing wine, and range from sparkling whites to bold reds. Unsurprisingly, this approach has earned Trivet accolades like the International Wine List of the Year and the Jury Prize from the esteemed website Star Wine List.
We begin with a magnificent 'house champagne' – an elegant blanc de blancs made from chardonnay, featuring a crisp acidity that’s present but not overpowering. There’s also a subtle fermentation note, typical of natural white wines, that adds an intriguing layer of complexity. Delicious!
Our first amuse-bouche is a delightful ball filled with creamy goat cheese of exceptional quality. The coating is just the right thickness – crispy without being too heavy – exactly how we like it.
A completely different kind of crispiness is showcased in the perfectly cooked sweetbread, served with a fresh salad of wild herbs and confit kombu. Sweetbread textures aren’t for everyone, but the crisp coating makes the dish more approachable. The interplay of bitter, sweet, and sour flavors is perfectly balanced, while the kombu (a type of kelp often used in Japanese dashi broth) adds a prominent umami note. The result is an exciting and complex dish – beautifully executed!
Our first 'wine' pairing is a Masumi Suwa 1662 sake. This elegant sake, with its refined structure, ripe fruit notes, and rich umami, pairs seamlessly with the bold flavors of the dish. The refreshing acidity ties everything together beautifully.
Next, we’re treated to one of Trivet’s signature dishes: drunken lobster with Trivet noodles. The lobster tail is delicately braised in an intense broth of lobster shells, sake, and kombu – a continuation of the previous dish’s theme, which we appreciate. It’s always a pleasure when a menu flows cohesively. The hand-cut noodles are cooked al dente, with a satisfying bite and elasticity. Combined with the luscious lobster oil, this dish is nothing short of a masterpiece. If it’s on the menu during your visit, don’t miss it!
To make up for our late arrival, the next three main courses are served together – a generous gesture by the chef, as all three are outstanding. We start with grilled mélange des Gobies with turbot from Cornwall, served with cockles and a leek ragout in a verjus sauce. The term 'mélange des Gobies' refers to a mix of goby fish species, small fish typically found in coastal waters and estuaries, which adds complexity to this seafood dish. The turbot’s cuisson is exceptional, preserving its firm texture and subtly sweet flavor without compromising consistency. The cockles and leek ragout provide a briny, earthy foundation, while the unripe fruit used in the verjus sauce adds a gentle acidity that’s far less aggressive than lemon or vinegar. Divine!
The second main course features green asparagus with anchovy cream and dried scallop roe. Once again, textures are a highlight – the asparagus retains its crunch, perfectly complementing the creamy, salty anchovy sauce. The dried scallop roe adds yet another umami note, enriching the dish’s depth and complexity.
Finally, we’re served the best end of lamb from Rhug Estate in North Wales. This prized cut (usually a rib section) comes from a farm that prides itself on avoiding artificial fertilizers, pesticides, and growth hormones. The lambs graze on untreated, natural grass in a region known for its biodiversity – all of which contributes to the meat’s exceptional tenderness and juicy flavor. The smokiness of the yogurt, the tangy sumac (a spice made from dried and ground berries of the Rhus plant, adding a citrusy freshness), and the earthiness of the aubergine come together in a robust yet refined dish
We are served two wines with our dishes: a fresh, highly vibrant Naoussa Alta Apostolos Thymiopoulos 2021, whose cherry and herbal notes pair beautifully with the smokiness and fruity elements of our lamb dish, and an elegant white Mildiani Tsinandali 2016 Dry White Wine Reserve. The latter wine boasts lovely floral notes and refreshing acidity – perfectly complementing the tangy asparagus and salty anchovy sauce.
Two desserts are presented to us. Saying that the first has been the “talk of the town” in London for a while might be a bit of an exaggeration, but it’s certainly true that a lot of digital ink has been spilled over reviews of the hokkaido potato. This dessert looks like a pastry but is actually a surprising interpretation of potato, featuring layers of mille-feuille, white chocolate, and potato caramel. Remarkably, there’s no overpowering starchy taste, nor is the dish too dry. The quenelle of butter and sake gelato on the plate adds freshness and a creamy dimension – very clever!
The second dessert, Trivet’s Turkish Breakfast, is a toffee homage to, as the name suggests, a Turkish breakfast. It’s built around a savory yogurt and sesame cake, accompanied by black olive caramel gelato. A thick, playful stripe of yogurt ganache adds light, tangy freshness, while sour cherry puree delivers the extra punch the dish needs. Small crispy biscuits bring a crunchy texture. It’s a unique and highly successful dessert!
Once again, we are served two complementary wines. The full-bodied and spicy notes of the Cederberg Shiraz 2019 perfectly enhance the rich flavors of the potato dessert, while the floral and honeyed accents of the aromatic Mooxaios Piov-Flaipiwv 2019, a sweet muscat wine that doesn’t cling to your teeth, beautifully align with the sweet-savory complexity of the Turkish breakfast.
We still have time for a digestif, and we choose the intriguing Green Spot Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey, aged in a Zinfandel wine barrel from Château Montelena. It’s not the priciest option, but it’s an excellent one, partly because the whiskey is non-peated and therefore not smoky. While we enjoy smoky drinks, in this case, the absence of peat allows the flavors of dried fruit, apple, and custard to shine through.
Conclusion
Despite the fact that everything had to move faster due to our late arrival, Trivet excels across the board – from the smooth service to the food and the perfectly paired drinks. This is a top-tier restaurant, easily among the best in London – and perhaps the very best if you’re looking for a place where you can simply order à la carte.
Trivet
36 Snowsfields
London SE1 3SU, UK
+44 20 3141 8670
Text: Dirk Vandereyken
Pictures: David Robyn
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