About 10 years ago, Michaël Vrijmoed, a gifted chef with an impressive culinary background, opened the doors of Restaurant Vrijmoed in a beautifully restored Ghent mansion. With his gastronomic innovations and two Michelin stars, Vrijmoed has made a significant mark on the Belgian culinary scene. Let's embark on a profound culinary expedition through this amazing gastronomic nexus, where history and modernity uniquely converge.
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Location
Restaurant Vrijmoed is a centrally located culinary oasis on the Vlaanderenstraat in Ghent. The stately lilac and white façades exude elegance, and the proximity to public transportation and other interesting locations makes the restaurant particularly appealing to food enthusiasts from all corners of the country and beyond.
Interior & Reception
Upon entering the restaurant, we are embraced by the timeless elegance of the interior. Dark paneling, beautiful stained glass windows, and modern details create a harmonious interplay of history and contemporary design. The carefully selected staff, with the chef often personally welcoming guests, greatly contributes to the experience, as we personally witness once we cross the threshold of the stately renovated mansion.
The Menu
Vrijmoed offers various lunch and dinner menus, catering to both curious gastronomes with a partially filled stomach and truly hungry souls. Here are the dishes presented to us!
1. Ice Pearl with Ponzu and Miso: Our culinary adventure begins with refined amuse-bouche, where the ice pearl of ponzu with miso serves as a perfect introduction. The interplay of the cooling ice pearl and the Japanese ponzu sauce with miso creates an exceptional taste experience.
2. Grissini with Fennel: Vrijmoed's original approach to grissini (an authentic Italian classic) attests to his creativity. The addition of fennel brings light, sweet, and spicy notes, perfectly complemented by a sauce of mustard seed and dill.
3. Emulsion of Black Garlic, Chestnut Mushrooms, and Wakame: The clever emulsion of black garlic, chestnut mushrooms, and wakame offers a complex and balanced taste experience with plenty of umami. The rich flavor of black garlic, combined with the savory tones of chestnut mushrooms and the salty wakame, creates a culinary masterpiece that leaves us impressed long after the last bite.
4. Tartlet with Scallop Tartare and Razor Clams: The lightly crispy tartlet with scallop tartare and razor clams is an ode to the sea. The smoked eel ice cream adds a unique smokiness and freshness to this seafood delicacy. Absolutely top-notch!
5. Poached Turbot with Porcini Mushrooms and Juniper Berry: The poached, delicate white fish, accompanied by aromatic porcini mushrooms and juniper berry, is a bold combination that stimulates the senses. Adding pig's ear gives the dish a surprising texture and savory dimension.
6. Vegetarian Highlight: This hearty dish of roasted and glazed root vegetables with cashews and rosemary offers a robust, flavorful vegetarian option. The bold aromas and spiciness make this dish a complete and satisfying experience.
7. Pear with Green Herbs and White Chocolate: Our culinary adventure reaches its peak with a dessert of pear, green herbs, and white chocolate: a creative, fragrant flavor bomb with juicy pear and refreshing herbs. The genius addition of white chocolate provides an unparalleled conclusion to our lunch.
Paired Wines
1. Chablis Premier Cru from Domaine Philippe Goulley: Accompanying the tartlet with scallop tartare and razor clams, a Chablis Premier Cru is served. This wine reflects the characteristics of the Chablis region with its bright golden color, aromas of green apple, mineral notes, and refreshing acidity. Deliciously fresh!
2. Prior Lucas Bianco Tinto D.O.P. Bairrada Habemus.R: This Portuguese blend of Prior Lucas pairs excellently with the poached turbot. With its deep ruby red color, aromas of ripe black fruit and spices, and firm tannins, it adds a rich and complex dimension.
3. Chianti Classico Castagnoli: This vibrant, ruby red Chianti Classico Castagnoli is presented with the dish of roasted root vegetables, and it is a good choice as the aromas of ripe red fruit and elegant texture harmoniously complement the dish.
4 .Grüner Veltliner from Weingut Bründlmayer Reid Berg Vogelsang: As the first dessert wine, a light yellow Grüner Veltliner is served. The nose of ripe peach and citrus, along with lively acidity, offers a refreshing accompaniment to the pear dessert.
5. Riesling Auslese from Toni Jost Hahnenhof Bacharacher: This golden Riesling Auslese concludes our culinary journey with aromas of peach, apricot, and honey. The perfect balance between sweetness and acidity, along with the long finish, makes this wine a beautiful choice with the pear, herbs, and white chocolate dessert.
Conclusion
Restaurant Vrijmoed has certainly earned its accolades: here, a master chef wields his imagination and expertise to present surprising (and mostly healthy) dishes. All of this is supported by an excellent team, while the building is beautiful and very centrally located. It's hard to imagine that Michaël would lose his two Michelin stars or his impressive score of 17.5 in the Gault&Millau, and it's actually regrettable that we didn't have the chance to visit one of the world's best vegetable restaurants earlier. If you can afford a lunch or dinner at the reasonably priced but correctly priced Vrijmoed, do yourself a favor by reserving a table immediately!
Interview: An Intimate Conversation with Chef Michaël Vrijmoed
After an extraordinary lunch, we sit down with Chef Michaël Vrijmoed for an in-depth interview. It becomes a fascinating exchange in which Vrijmoed shares his views on gastronomy, inspirations, and dedication to quality.
About Consistency and Creativity: When we ask about the composition of the dessert, Michaël enthusiastically explains that the team of chef-patissiers does everything themselves, from start to finish. He emphasizes the importance of consistency in quality and shares that the entire team is involved in the creative process.
About the Sympathetic Team: The conversation shifts to Vrijmoed's sympathetic team. Michaël emphasizes that it's not just about the food, but that the overall experience, including the team, is crucial. He praises the maturity and experience of his team, which significantly contributes to a smooth interaction with the guests.
About the Importance of Vegetables in the Menu: During the interview, we touch upon the fact that Vrijmoed is known as the fourth-best vegetable restaurant in the world. Michaël divuluges to us that the idea of serving more vegetables grew out of visits to the Librije and that he is strongly inspired by the renowned chef working there, Jonnie Boer. He stresses that his vegetarian dishes don't feel like a compromise, and many guests who choose this menu are not necessarily vegetarians; instead, they are often gastronomes looking to try something different or who got attracted by the complete vegetable menus and Vrijmoed's high rating as a 'green' restaurant.
About Gastronomic Evolution and Passion for Innovation: The discussion continues with an in-depth look at the evolution of gastronomy in Ghent and the importance of surprises in the kitchen. Michaël firmly states that he doesn't want a stiff atmosphere in his restaurant but rather a dynamic, accessible ambiance where guests can be pleasantly surprised. With establishments like the Flemish Foodies, Souvenir, and Karel de Stoute in the city, he feels well-supported.
About Ambition and Dedication: Michaël shares his belief in continuous evolution and creativity, with a menu that changes every two months. He emphasizes the importance of innovation and the constant exploration of new flavor combinations. The fact that he doesn't have to travel far or long for inspiration doesn't seem to be a hindrance. Michaël enjoys being in his restaurant, still passionate about cooking, and has no desire to end up as the executive chef of a large restaurant chain.
More info: www.vrijmoed.be
Tekst: Dirk Vandereyken
Foto's: Paula van Unen
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