Verbier - Iconic Ski Resort in the Swiss Alps
There’s no shortage of ski resorts in the Alps, but my choice is Verbier, one of the most iconic ski destinations in the region and part of Les 4 Vallées, the largest interconnected ski area in Switzerland. Verbier is a dream destination for seasoned skiers, though as an average skier with a keen interest in sporty side activities, I never found myself bored for a second.
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Verbier is known as an expensive ski resort, particularly when it comes to hotels. I can understand why, but I’ve found a simple solution: I book a hotel in Le Châble, a former farming village located at 850 meters altitude in the valley just below Verbier. Once the administrative center of the valley, Le Châble has transformed into a charming suburb of sorts, complete with cafés and restaurants. A ski lift connects Le Châble to Verbier – and it’s fast, taking less than 10 minutes to reach 1,510 meters, right in the beating heart of Verbier.
The ski resort feels smaller than I had imagined, with a long main street offering a cozy mix of shops, hotels, sports stores, restaurants, and trendy bars. The lively après-ski scene is a definite highlight. Surrounding the main street, side streets are lined with upscale chalets, adding a touch of elegance to the area.
Relaxing by the Pool
To ease my stiff muscles - after a morning train to Zaventem, an early flight, and a train ride from Geneva to Le Châble – I treated myself to a few hours of poolside relaxation on my first day. And I did so in style at the spa complex of the W Hotel in Verbier. This five-star hotel, situated right in the bustling heart of Verbier, resembles a series of interconnected wooden luxury chalets. Inside, everything feels hip and trendy – as expected. The hotel is part of the upscale Marriott chain. I can’t speak for the rooms, though, as the hotel was fully booked during my visit.
The spa complex is brand new and features two pools – one even extends outdoors—and numerous relaxation areas. Swimming outside, I’m greeted by a breathtaking view of the snow-covered mountain slopes. Later, I indulge in a visit to the hammam and steam room. By the end, I feel more or less reborn.
With a View of the Matterhorn
With an area of around 300 km² dedicated to sports and fun and more than 400 km of ski slopes, Verbier is a dream destination for both beginner and advanced skiers. That’s great news for me, as I’m far from an experienced skier. I rent my ski gear in Le Châble and once again take the lift up to Verbier. From there, I transfer to Les Ruinettes, located at an altitude of 2,191 meters. From Les Ruinettes, I glide down a blue slope back to Verbier. Blue indicates a medium difficulty level—perfect for a warm-up, in my opinion. The red slopes – ideal for more advanced skiers – are something I might consider later.
In the afternoon, I take a series of lifts to reach Mont-Fort, standing at an impressive 3,330 meters and the highest point in the region. I’m not here to ski, though—just to take in the absolutely breathtaking views of the vast surroundings. For a moment, I feel—perhaps with a touch of exaggeration – like I’m on top of the world. The 360° panorama is truly phenomenal.
In the distance, the Matterhorn, the Grand Combin, and Mont Blanc glisten in the sunlight. The black slopes descending from Mont-Fort are not for me – hey appear to plunge almost vertically downward. Or is that just my imagination?
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A Breathtaking Zipline
The next morning, I head back to Mont-Fort – this time with a reservation, as I plan to glide down the mountain via the zipline. Well, partially. The Mont 4 Zipline is one of Verbier's showpieces: a brand-new zipline that spans a vertical drop of 383 meters at speeds of up to 130 km/h, covering a distance of 1,400 meters. It’s officially the highest zipline in the world and the longest in the Alps. I got lucky – just the day before, all rides had been canceled due to bad weather (read: too much wind). Lucky? Perhaps not entirely. Over breakfast, I was filled with apprehension after watching a YouTube video of the ride – a poor decision that partially spoiled the magic.
That said, the strict safety procedures provided some reassurance. Still, I climbed into the safety harness with a pounding heart. Secured in a seated position, as if sitting in a chair, I was gently pushed into the void. Talk about a rush! Wow. The view, the speed, the sheer drop, the wind rushing past – it’s all exhilarating. One final observation: the descent is over before I fully realize it.
The day only gets better with an invigorating hike between Les Ruinettes and La Chaux – a delightful hour of snowy walking. Nothing works up an appetite like a good trek, and I satisfy mine with a double hamburger at Le Dahu restaurant in La Chaux. Perched at 2,265 meters, this spot is a favorite among skiers looking for a hearty lunch. While I didn’t ski that morning, a burger and fries always hit the spot – especially when paired with a glass of red wine.
A Descent by Sledge
The next morning, I trade my skis for a sledge as I’ve planned a thrilling descent. From Verbier, a bus takes me to a cable car that whisks me to the starting point in Savoleyres at 2,354 meters. The cable car has a charmingly old-school feel, which somehow puts me in the perfect mood for the adventure ahead. The descent is no walk in the park – it’s a real workout. At first, parents with children zoom past me on the early stretches, and I stick to cautious maneuvering. But as I get the hang of it, I start to take more risks in the curves and on the straights.
The sled run stretches an impressive 10 kilometers, making it one of the longest and steepest in Switzerland. Between Savoleyres and the endpoint at La Tzoumaz, there’s a vertical drop of 819 meters. By the time I reach the bottom, I’m sweating and thoroughly exhilarated. Arriving in La Tzoumaz, the resort reveals itself as a family-friendly destination, offering a far more subdued atmosphere compared to Verbier. But that’s part of its charm – this is a place for relaxation, not revelry.
A Perfect Ending
After a leisurely lunch in La Tzoumaz, I take a shuttle back to Verbier, where I have a reservation at 67 Pall Mall. This wine bar and bistro is currently one of Verbier’s most talked-about hot spots. Downstairs, you’ll find a welcoming wine bar paired with a bistro kitchen serving regional specialties. The wine list is irresistible, showcasing the best of Swiss vintages alongside a selection of international greats. Upstairs is a Members Only Clubroom, featuring a fine dining restaurant and an exclusive wine bar – an indulgent way to round off an extraordinary day.
TakiTrek
On the morning of my last day, I had the choice between a half-day of skiing or a mountain trek with sled dogs. The decision was an easy one – sled dogs, of course! This was a truly unique experience, and skiing can always wait for another time.
The sled dogs were waiting for me in an open kennel near the Les Ruinettes ski lifts.
They were impossible to miss; their barking could be heard from afar. Two sleds were already hitched up, each with a team of huskies, and my sled was pulled by around ten eager dogs. They were thrilled to finally head out into the wilderness. I didn’t need to do a thing – the musher, or dog sled guide, took care of everything, expertly steering the dogs as we set off.
Our route partially followed a cross-country ski trail before going off-road, hurtling down a slope and sinking into deep powder snow. And the dogs? They couldn’t have been happier. The tour lasted about an hour, making it the perfect conclusion to my all-too-short four-day trip to Verbier. One thing’s certain: I’ll be back someday – perhaps even in the summer.
Practical Info
For more information: www.verbier.ch
I flew via Brussels Airport to Geneva, followed by a train ride to Le Châble. I stayed at A Lârze, a small, family-run hotel located in the heart of Le Châble. With just ten rooms, most of them designed by local artisans, the hotel exudes charm.
On the ground floor, you’ll find the breakfast room, which doubles as a communal gathering space during the day. In the afternoons, complimentary homemade cakes and cookies are served, and later, guests can unwind in the sauna for a rejuvenating break. The relaxed atmosphere and personal touch guarantee a soothing vacation in the Swiss Alps.
More info: www.alarze.ch
Igor Vandenberghe
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